Exactly 9 years ago, my new husband Miki and I packed our lives in four suitcases and landed in Honolulu, moving from Serbia. It was like moving in a completely different dimension- from a land-locked, tense and conflict driven land to this sacred island surrounded by nothing but blue ocean as far as your eyes can see.
Here I finished my PhD degree, got an adorable kid who just turned 6 (and is exclusively speaking English to my discontent), and started working at Hamilton Library at University of Hawaiʻi at Mānoa. I will share with you how my family spends days- usually during weekends- at different spots on the island of O‘ahu. The first is - of course- the North Shore.
To the North Shore and Back…
Day One
For us, going to the North Shore is a special event. That coast has a completely different vibe than the ‘town’. It is even slower, mellower yet much cooler! Considering all the cool surfers you can see around… and some big turtles, too!
I will tell you about all the spots we visit- although it would be hard to do them in one day, so we often camp at North Shore for a weekend.
In my house, my husband is the one rushing us to get through the door and leave the town as early as possible, to avoid traffic (again, most of the jam is going to be around the turtles seeing sites). He plans for 8 am and I am about ready at 9 am. One would think it’s not possible to be late for the beach, yet we often are!
It takes us about 1h via H1/H99, and the first stop is at Green World Coffee Farm. There we get a coffee and ice cream break, and chill in the garden among the coffee plants. If we have a guest with us, we might stop by Dole Plantation (that has a little train ride, maze and other touristy stuff) to take some pictures with really colorful trunks of rainbow eucalyptus.
Next stop is the historical town of Haleiwa, a super cute little building with a lot of shops with nice yet casual clothes and jewelry. My favorite break- the shopping break! Still, it usually doesn’t last long because my husband is ready for his favorite break- the lunch break!
Just down the street from the main center, you can see and smell delicious Ray’s Kaiwe broiled chicken (street shop next to Malama Marked) with a reasonable price- that goes great with their coleslaw.
We grab the bag full of it and head to the first beach for the day- the one we call ‘the secret beach’. It is actually called Puaʻena Point Beach Park, and it is a bit off road and behind a fence, yet offers a nice shady spot to attack the bag with chicken. The great view sometimes features surf school lessons. If you continue walking even further, at the right time of year you can enjoy nice tide pools, while watching powerful waves crashing just in front of you.
I always wanted to come live in Hawaiʻi, to be able to spend long days on the beach reading a book. However, my daughter wants all the attention and will rip the book out of my hands, sometimes even jump on top of it (gasps the librarian!); and the guy I married is one of those nervous types, who likes to move and can never relax… so we are off to the next spot.
We usually skip Waimea Valley- although it is a magical garden place with a big waterfall at the end of it where you can swim. That is because it takes time to do this hike, but also $$, and the Waimea Beach parking is often full. Still, a worthwhile visit.
At the next spot, we usually stay for a bit longer, even take a nap in shades after a good snorkel, moving between - Three Tables with deep clear water and Shark’s Cove with a shallow crowded pool, yet wonderfully colorful fish. Food trucks in that area are a good place to eat, but we usually go to the local Foodland where we stock up with snacks and drinks and move further.
I would recommend you stop at one of the big beaches on the way, such as Banzai Pipeline or Sunset Beach Park, because the scenery with huge waves and surfers on them is breathtaking.
We always planned to rent bikes and go along the bike path to visit each of the spots, but that didn’t happen yet. If you do it, let me know how it was!
The next place- and the only one you can actually swim at if
the waves are too crazy everywhere else- is Turtle Bay- the only resort in that area. Recently renovated and nice, it has a little beach with the bar on it that is open to the public- as here it is not allowed to close off beaches and make them private. There is another ‘hidden location’ with a baby beach/bay and shallow waters for the youngest ones, and you can get to it from the parking lot- walking along the coast, next to the golf course and through the nice woods.
Kahuku Sugar Mill is a good spot to make a break from all these beaches, and I sometimes treat myself with a crazily overpriced Whipped Coffee at Raised by the Waves, and/or eat excellent fresh catch fish tacos or burritos at Papi’s Tacos.
This was a long day, but very nice and fulfilling… I hope you enjoyed it too!
Day Two
Now we get into the windy side-or Windward side! Hold on to your hat!
Malaekahana Beach, the ‘private campground’ side is where we often camped before, yet the campground got closed for renovation. Still, for sentimental reasons we have to stop there so Miki can do some boogie boarding, and I pick up some of the colorful beach plastic that is very apparent in the heavenly scenery.
Just a few minutes after this beach, we get into Lāʻie, a small town with a big Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints/Mormon Temple as well as other places run by the same crowd- the most famous of which is the Polinesian Cultural Center. I only went once there, and it was fun and educational- but you’ll need at least half a day to ‘go through’ all the islands represented + a whole evening to watch the fire show and eat buffet dinner. Still, the marketplace is open for visitors, and I even got a ring as a present there once- fishing for a pearl in oyster at Pearl Factory! So, ladies- you never know!
But before leaving Lāʻie- you should check out the awesome, galactic portal-looking place I recently ‘discovered’ called Lāʻie Point State Wayside! It is minutes away from the marketplace.
One of our current favorite camping and swimming spots in the North Shore is Kokololio Beach Park, and when I get there - I have no desire to leave it and go anywhere, especially if we barbeque for the day with friends and set up a hammock. Finally, my reading time!
My second favorite campling place on that side is Ahupuaʻa ʻO Kahana State Park, a picturesque lagune where you can see fluorescent blue planktons in the night, shining like a promise of magic Hawaiʻi always brings to our life.
On the way back to the South Shore, one of the famous tourist spots is Kualoa Ranch, with a good offer of tours I never took. However, there is one you can do by yourself- and it is Secret Island. To get to this spot, you go through Kualoa Regional Park, with a view of the small island called Mokoliʻi, aka Chinaman’s Hat- popular for kayaking. To get to this, yet another ‘secret spot’ continues driving and keep to the right; park at the end of the road after the gate. There you will see a very nice beach with shallow waters and beautiful bay views. Continue walking through the water or woods to the right and eventually you get to it. Still, you don’t get to enjoy the games and chairs that are reserved for those who paid the tour :).
Now, it’s time for a spiritual quest!
One of the must-see places on the way back to town is Byodo-In Temple- an exact copy of an original Japanese Buddhist Temple, in a wonderful lush background- just behind the cemetery. My daughter enjoys seeing all the koi fish, cats and swans interacting with each other. The shop sells fish food that creates locomotion in the waters surrounding the temple, but my favorite buy is the Japanese fortune-telling scrolls- omikuji - just to know my luck.
Taking in the beauty of the ridge mountains along the way, one side of what used to be a giant volcano that created the island, we drive back via Pali Highway. You should definitely stop at the Pali Lookout, a place of important battle and incredible view (if the weather serves you).
For the end (or even better beginning) of the day, an easy and short but fun and muddy hike with a falls at the end is Lulumahu Trail- that even us lazy people with small kids find doable.
After that, we are back to Honolulu! What a ‘mini vacation’! I hope you will enjoy it as we do!
